They rely on sensors and electronics to control the throttle. In the case of GM vehicles and possibly others if the idle speed is over rpm higher than expected, this code will be set. There are potentially other symptoms as well. Of course, when trouble codes are set, the MIL malfunction indicator lamp, a. If there are no other codes, inspect the intake air system for air or vacuum leaks and damage.
If there are no symptoms other than the DTC itself, just clear the code and see whether it returns. If you have an advanced scan tool that can interact with the car, command the idle higher and lower to see if the engine responds appropriately. If available, try swapping in a new throttle body to see if that fixes the problem.
On Nissan Altimas and possibly other vehicles the problem may be fixed by having the dealer perform an idle air relearn procedure, or other relearn procedures. The list of automotive Makes at the right edge of the screen. The currently selected ODB-ii codes is for the Subaru makes.
Enter the 5 character trouble codes in the search box and submit the search. If your OBD-II trouble codes are for a different car, select that vehicle series before searching for the diagnostic codes because not all OBD2 codes used by one manufacture are used by the other makes.
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What does this mean? Possible Solutions This DTC is more of an informational code, so if there are any other codes set, diagnose them first.
Note: 1. Leave a Reply Cancel reply Your email address will not be published.In the event you are experiencing an erratic idle after loading a tune or after performing any action that clears KAM Keep Alive Memoryan Idle Relearn can help you get back on track.
This memory contains data regarding idle trims, fueling adjustments, adaptive shifting, and many other parameters. It is constantly updated as the vehicle is driven to account for changes in environment, driving conditions, and even wear on the vehicle. Examples would be: disconnecting the battery, replacing battery or battery cables, a dead battery, or a bad ground. When KAM is cleared, or battery power is lost, the computer returns to the base parameters set in the calibration, and loses the stored values it has gathered based on driving habits, inputs, and data collected by the vehicle sensors.
When this happens it is sometimes necessary to perform an idle relearn to once again teach the car how to idle correctly. Account 0 Items. Menu Links My Account. Follow these steps to complete an Idle Relearn: With vehicle at a complete stop, set the parking brake. Put gear shifter in "P" Parkturn off all accessories. Run the engine until it reaches normal operating temperature. Allow engine to idle for at least one minute. Turn the air conditioning on and allow the engine to idle for at least one minute.
Release the parking brake. Drive the vehicle to complete the relearning process. Just make sure you drive easy for the first 30 miles, so the PCM can re-learn and adapt to your driving style.Hey there, I have a '97 I already filled this out before I noticed only and newer on this forum-sorry, please help anyway! Subaru Legacy Outback that is stalling out at stop signs, slow turns, and while idling at lights.
This does not happen at every stop. I throw the car in park, restarts just fine. Sometimes it tries to lose power while driving, I pump the gas a bit and it will sputter back into the original speed. Occasionally I hear a knocking sound in what seems to be under the car when cranking the wheel or turning sharply, but again, this is not always indicative of the car losing power. NO check engine light. Light did come on for a day or 2 a few weeks ago, ran a P code.
I carefully cleaned the MAF sensor with the proper spray, along with inside the intake valve while car was running. Replaced fuel filter as well. These things have seemed to get rid of the code, but not the problem. Other little repairs I've done in this mystery game have been to replace battery terminal connectors, and adjusting throttle cables.
I had new spark plugs put in a few years ago, as well as a new O2 if I'm not mistaken. I'm nickle and diming it at this point and my mechanic wants me to drive the hell out of it until I get a code, but it's a very unsafe and frustrating game I'd rather not be playing! Thanks in advance for any help.
Before I owned the car, a very badly wired keyless entry and Anti-theft device was installed, and removed before I purchased. The wiring gave me a bit of trouble starting the car a few years ago but never persisted. Around same time O2 was replaced. I'm now realizing this may be a big part of what's going on here How do I troubleshoot the wiring harness?
TheSubaruGuruBoston answered 3 years ago. Doubt it's wiring related.
NHTSA — Engine Problems
More likely a gummed up throttle body or bad IACV idle-air control valve. Start by thoroughly spray-cleaning the TB butterfly valve area; check plugs and wires to be thorough. Chase crap in fuel by filling once with premium and a bottle of fuel injection cleaner. Twenty years is a LONG time for these chariots Subaru Legacy Outback that is stalling out at stop signs, slow turns The vehicle began to lose power under load and up hills. Idle stayed smooth for a week or two. Also produces a loud metalic ratcheting sound at around RPM.
Is not fuel filter, MAS. Mechanics have Sometimes when I go to start my car I will have full battery power, but yet it has zero power to the engine. My 2. Recently, however, my sister ba I have a low rpm but I replaced the plugs then it ran fine for 10 miles, but now I am back at the start with a shuddering low idle when ever I switch gears it also lowers to low idle with shudderinCylinder 1 misfire, I've replaced the wires, coil pack, and MAF and air filter moving on to spark plugs.
The car was running fine until I replaced the coil pack. And I replaced it anyways because I didn't want the problem to progress. Thought it might be the wires so I replaced them too, didn't help. Replaced the MAF and it still idles low and dies if I leave it alone. I also changed the air filter because it looked pretty bad.
I just bought this car and two days later this happen. What do y'all think? Subaru Impreza 2. TheSubaruGuruBoston answered 4 years ago. MsAx, Nice Subie! I'm going to guess that the very fine gap between the throttle body butterfly plate and its bore is gummed up over time.
Note that restarting will be tough and possibly smoky The problem isn't that the gunk was CAUSING the rough idle, but that it was blocking the small amount of air needed for the idle circuitry its sensor plugged in there to maintain a smooth idle. This is a pretty good service to perform every years, and costs nothing.
Do try to avoid breathing the spray carb cleaner. If I remember this sensor throws a CEL if bad. Have fun, and wear rubber gloves. I have this problem also my car rpm hesiting when i remove my leg from acceleration pedal and when i put it again gear is shiftting bad, and i smell bad inside my car also in my subaru impreza 2. And I replaced it anyways because Sometimes dash.
Can't even get the window up. About a week ago, I was driving my car to run a couple of errands.
The first drive was ordinary. After a couple of stops, I had trouble putting the gear from Park to Drive. It would get stuck in Par I haven't had any problems Content submitted by Users is not endorsed by CarGurus, does not express the opinions of CarGurus, and should not be considered reviewed, screened, or approved by CarGurus.
Remove advertisements. I posted this in LegUp's Clutch replacement threadbut I thought I'd make a new thread for people who don't know this procedure as per Max Capacity's post.
Raleigh Subaru Repair
Originally Posted by Max Capacity. Max Capacity. CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here. I don't understand why people make this into such a big deal. The ECU is constantly learning while you're driving, it's not like after a battery reset it just learns for a couple minutes and then stops. Not to mention there's a bunch of other compensations cold start, hot restart to name a few that relate directly to startup that also take effect.
The best way to let the ECU learn? Drive the car as your normally would.
Subaru P0507 Idle Air Control System RPM Higher Than Expected
That's the intent of a continuous closed-loop control system. After reconnecting the battery, I leave the key in the ON position for about 10 seconds, start the car, and drive away. Has worked dozens of time for me with no issues. Originally Posted by outahere. I always just did and second or third gear pull and it went back to normal.
Or as mentioned, just drive it as would and it'll go back to normal. Just drive around like normal, Learning values get reset everytime you flash a map too. Idle will work itself out after starts. I let it idle for a minute, drive around until it's warmed up and then do a few moderate pulls and DAM will read 1. Is doing a pull necessary? I just replaced my clutch so I don't plan on doing any pulls for a while.
Originally Posted by sanchitosonria. Originally Posted by magnusonsubie.Not necessarily, A reflash may include new programing. Relearning is something your car does automatically after the power is disconnected from the computer.
Some newer, fancier cars may nor relearn everything when it comes to the radio or anti-theft systems. A reflash is installing the most up to date program for your transmission. The technician would have to down load the program from Subaru and flash your TCM.
Since your transmission is probably well broken in if not well worn, the program will still have to relearn shift parameters that let your transmission shift optimally. A relearn is the adaptation that a transmission program does to match shift parameters to the state of your transmission clutches and your style of driving.
If you have a max effort style of driving, it will adapt the shift patterns to give a crisp, no slip, harsh engagement. If you have a more laid back driving style, it will adapt the shifts to a bump free engagement i. Subaru transmission reflash vs. Is doing a transmission reflash the same as the relearn procedure? Hope this helps.Automotive Forums. Under most circumstances, it will relearn after just driving the car for a while, but if your car continues to experience an abnormal idle, or you just don't want to wait for it to relearn on its own, you can try this procedure.
While The negative cable is dissconnected, pump the brake pedal a few times to clear out any voltage in the system. Re-connect the negative cable after this is complete. Turn off air conditioning controls and all other accessories. Allow engine to run for at least 5 minutes. With engine stabilized and in closed loop, the IAC motor values should be between nine to 12 counts. If not, the adjustments may be tailored by adjusting the minimum air rate screw. More throttle valve opening equals lower IAC counts.
Less throttle opening equals higher IAC counts. That's a good thing to know. Here's something I found in my Haynes to help provide some more guidance. Instead of typing a long paragraph, I'm going to put into steps. Start the engine and run it as close to idle speed as possible until it reaches its normal operating temperature. Run it for approximately 2 minutes at RPM.
Drive the vehicle as far as necessary, approximately 5 miles of varied driving conditions is usually sufficient to complete the relearning process. Robert A. Can you please tell me how to check the counts of the IAC? Pull ECM fuse for about 30 sec. So far for the last 3 years I have never had a problem doing it this way. The problem I have, after the car warms up, you can hear, and see on the tach, it doing a periodic "bounce" down from rpm, or whatever it's supossed to be idling at all the time when warm.
The car never stalls, because it recovers very quickly, but I didn't know if this was an indication of a failing IAC motor? The car never does this when given gas I have replaced the Ignition Module a year ago, as this did go bad tach would bounce all over the place at times, and stall the engine when really warm, etc How can I Trouble shoot this, or is this a classic sign of a failing IAC motor?
It's easy enough to replace, but I don't want to do it, unless it is what is causing the problem for sure. If all else fails, go to the gm garage and have the idle reset.
I have learned that cleaning the throttle body before starting up after a battery disconnect helps tremendously!!! No creeping idle